Preparation and planting – Broccoli thrives in Michigan’s mild climate, particularly near the lake where temperatures are regulated. It is not particularly heat resistant, thus early spring and fall plantings are recommended. It can tolerate minor frosts during the seedling stage, although not as well as its near relative, cabbage.
What is the secret to cultivating broccoli?
Broccoli need cold temperatures, full light, water, and a nutrient-dense soil. If you begin with young, robust Bonnie Plants® broccoli plants, you will be substantially closer to harvest than if you started from seeds. Plant your broccoli in an area that receives at least six hours of sunlight every day and has rich, well-drained, organic-rich soil.
- Mulch will assist in keeping the soil cool and wet.
- For optimal development and to prevent clubroot disease, the soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0.
- To determine the precise pH of your soil, it is preferable to get it tested.
- Through your local Cooperative Extension office, you may purchase a soil test kit or have one performed.
If necessary, adjust the pH with lime based on test findings. It is essential to employ a combination of premium-quality soil and plant food to sustain plant development in your garden. Mix aged, compost-enhanced Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® All-Purpose In-Ground Fertilizer with your soil to make significant changes.
- Combine the dirt with the top few inches of the native soil.
- If you’re growing broccoli in a container, pick a pot with a diameter of at least 18 inches (measured across the top) and fill it with Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics ® All Purpose Container Mix (also supplemented with compost) to give the ideal environment for the plant’s roots.
Wherever you decide to plant broccoli, you will need to fertilize it periodically with a continuous-release fertilizer, such as Miracle-Gro® Performance Organics® Edibles Plant Nutrition Granules, according to the instructions on the label. Plant at the distances specified on the Bonnie plant label.
In general, space broccoli plants 18 inches apart. If grown in rows, position rows 24 inches apart to provide for adequate walking space, but you can plant two or three plants per row to reduce aisle space. If rainfall is insufficient to saturate the soil, provide 1 to 1.5 inches of water every week if you want your broccoli to grow quickly and produce healthy heads.
A rain gauge placed in the garden can measure the quantity of precipitation. A mulch of compost, finely ground leaves, or finely ground bark will assist maintain soil moisture and prevent weed growth. In colder areas, you may need to plant through black plastic in early spring to help warm the soil, or leave the soil bare so the sun can warm it.
Broccoli Sowing Demonstration Video – For those who desire to begin sowing in containers, Ben demonstrates how to do it in this video. Observe the entire process, from planting seeds to harvesting broccoli. Temperatures between 65° and 70°F (18 and 21°C) are optimal for plant growth.
Three weeks after placing seedlings into the garden, fertilize broccoli. Utilize a fertilizer low in nitrogen, such as a 5-10-10 composition. When new plants reach 2 to 3 inches in height, thin them. Plants should be separated by 12 to 20 inches. Provide continuous soil hydration by consistent irrigation, particularly during dry situations.
At least 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water every week. When watering, avoid getting growing broccoli heads wet, since this might promote rot. As plants have relatively shallow roots, avoid disturbing them. Use to suffocate weeds. Mulching around plants will also assist in reducing soil temperature.
Utilize row coverings to reduce pests. Maintain a vigorous feeding and watering regimen to encourage the growth of a second head once the first has been harvested. Find out more about. ‘Calabrese’ is an Italian heritage broccoli variety with huge heads and abundant side shoots that are ready for harvest.
Excellent for fall planting as well. ‘Flash’ is a fast-growing, heat-resistant hybrid with excellent side-shoot output once the center head has been removed. Excellent for fall planting as well. “Green Goliath” is a heat-tolerant variety with enormous heads and many side shoots.
- ‘Green Duke’ is a heat-tolerant, early cultivar that is ideal for gardeners in the South.
- Green Magic” is tolerant to heat and freezes well.
- The ‘Paragon’ kind features extra-long spears that are great for freezing.
- Collect broccoli in the morning, when the head’s buds are firm and compact, just before to flowering.
If you notice any yellow petals, pluck them quickly, as their quality will swiftly decline. Remove the plant’s heads, leaving at least 6 inches of stalk. Create a slanted incision on the stem to let excess water to escape. (Water can collect in the core of a flat-cut stalk and rot it, causing the secondary heads to run) The lateral branches of the majority of cultivars will continue to grow after the main head has been picked.
- If your summer is not too hot, you can harvest from a single plant for several weeks, in some cases from spring to fall.
- Broccoli may be refrigerated for up to five days.
- If you wash anything before storing it, be sure to properly dry it.
- Blanching and freezing broccoli for up to one year is possible.
- Originally, broccoli stems were consumed.
Ancient Roman farmers referred to broccoli as “Jupiter’s five green fingers.” Why not try growing one of broccoli’s relatives once you’ve mastered growing it? Check out our Growing Guides for,,,,, and!
| Pest/Disease | Type | Symptoms | Control/Prevention |
|---|---|---|---|
| Insect | Curled, misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold. | Grow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of water and dish soap (no additives) every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects (such as ladybugs). | |
| Cabbage loopers | Insect | Large, ragged holes in leaves from larval feeding; defoliation; stunted or bored heads; excrement. | Handpick off plants; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; spray larvae with insecticidal soap or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)—a natural, bacterial pesticide; use row covers; remove plant debris at end of season. |
| Insect | White maggots become gray flies that resemble small houseflies. Wilted/stunted plants; off-color leaves; larvae feeding on roots. | Use collars made of plastic or tin foil around seedling stems; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; destroy crop residue; till soil in fall; rotate crops. | |
| Insect | Leaves have large, ragged holes or are skeletonized; heads bored; dark green excrement; yellowish eggs laid singly on leaf undersides. | Handpick; use row covers; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; grow companion plants (especially thyme); spray Bt ( Bacillus thuringiensis), | |
| Clubroot | Fungus | Wilted/stunted plants; yellow leaves; roots appear swollen/distorted. | Destroy infected plants; solarize soil; maintain soil pH of around 7.2; disinfect tools; rotate crops. |
| Downy Mildew | Fungus | Yellow, angular spots on upper leaf surfaces that turn brown; white/purple/gray cottony growth on leaf undersides only; distorted leaves; defoliation. | Remove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering. |
| Nitrogen deficiency | Deficiency | Bottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant. | Supplement with a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves. |
| Stink bugs | Insect | Yellow/white blotches on leaves; shriveled seeds; eggs, often keg-shape, in clusters on leaf undersides. | Destroy crop residue; handpick (bugs emit odor, wear gloves); destroy eggs; spray nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row covers; weed; till soil in fall. |
| White rust | Fungus | Chalk-white blisters mainly on leaf undersides; small, yellow-green spots or blisters, sometimes in circular arrangement, on upper leaf surfaces; possible distortion or galls; flowers/stems may also be infected. More common with warm days and cool/moist nights. | Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; weed; destroy crop residue; rotate crops. |
| Insect | Sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold; yellow/ silver areas on leaves; wilted/stunted plants; distortion; adults fly if disturbed; some species transmit viruses. | Remove infested leaves/plants; use handheld vacuum to remove pests; spray water on leaf undersides in morning/evening to knock off pests; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; spray with insecticidal soap; invite beneficial insects and hummingbirds with native plants; weed; use reflective mulch. |
In addition, you will receive our free Beginner Gardening Guide! Broccoli
Does broccoli require a great deal of water?
Water – Water broccoli deeply and infrequently, attempting to keep the soil evenly moist. Approximately 1 to 2 inches of water are required weekly. If feasible, use drip irrigation to preserve water. In addition to conserving soil moisture and suppressing weed development, mulching around a plant helps to retain soil moisture and prevent weed growth.
