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As with any Internet translation, the conversion is context-free and may not convey the original sense of the text. NC State Extension does not guarantee the translation’s correctness. Please note that certain translated apps and/or services may not perform as planned. Estoy de Acuerdo / I agree Collapse Numerous garden centers, hardware stores, agricultural supply stores, and DIY warehouses provide turf seed.
This week’s precipitation and colder temperatures are ideal for the germination of cool-season grasses such as tall fescue. For optimal results, if you want to establish or restore your lawn with a cool-season grass this fall, make sure to seed by the end of September.
- The following recommendations and advice for seeding tall fescue are drawn from a Turf Alert issued on NC State Extension TurfFiles by Dr.
- Grady Miller on September 15, 2014.
- Tips for Achievement: Seeding Cool-Season Grass It is ideal to renovate and overseed cool-season lawns in the fall.
- Remember that tall fescue that is established in the spring is more sensitive to drought, heat, fungal diseases, and weed invasion.
Spring sowing is not likely to result in a year-long stand of robust tall fescue under regular summer weather patterns. So do not delay, seed immediately! Temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit are optimal for seedling germination and growth.
For successful germination, soil temperatures must be above 60 degrees. It is often preferable to seed a bit early rather than late. If tall fescue is sown in less-than-ideal conditions (too chilly or without sufficient soil moisture), you may have a thin grass stand heading into the winter. Therefore, attempt to plant your seeds in September.
If you must wait until October, the probability of slow/low germination increases. The normal seeding rate for tall fescue is 5 to 6 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Typically, germination happens between 7 to 21 days under optimal soil moisture and temperature conditions.
- Choose cultivars suggested on the Turffiles website for optimal outcomes and to maximize your return on investment.
- The names of cultivars should be included on the seed bag label.
- Try to locate a tall fescue mix that has at least one of the cultivars on the list of recommended cultivars if you are purchasing a blend.
These grasses were selected because they generate superior turf in North Carolina and are less sensitive to brown patch. Some choose to use a little amount of Kentucky bluegrass (darker in color and finer in texture) or fine fescue (for shady areas). NOT INCLUDE ryegrass in the mixture. Look for varieties suggested by NCSU based on their turf variety testing, such as Mystix, Legitimate, and Arisotle on this label. Wolfpack II, Talladega, Faith, 3rd Millennium, and Gazelle II are top performers. Germination percentage (85% on this label for all three types) – a greater germination rate indicates that more seeds germinate.
Select mixtures with extremely low quantities of weed seed (preferably less than 0.25%). Sell by Date – typically, fresher seeds offer greater germination rates. Choose seeds that will be sold this year or next. Avoid purchasing seeds that have beyond their sell-by date. Before planting, it is advised to do core aerification to decrease soil compaction.
Improving soil-to-seed contact is essential for maximizing accessible soil moisture. The core aerification pores will collect seed and retain moisture, causing the tall fescue seedlings to emerge as tufts of grass. Fertilizer and lime should be used before to planting based on soil test findings.
If a soil test was not performed, use the fertilizing techniques described on NC State Extension TurfFiles. Before adding more fertilizer or lime, perform a soil test. If irrigation is available, water after sowing to keep the top 1.5 inches of soil wet. This may require light watering once or twice every day for seven to twenty-one days, depending on the kind of soil and the weather.
As the seedlings grow and root, water them less often but for longer durations, building up to the suggested autumn watering rate of one-fourth to one-half inch of water each week (via rainfall or irrigation). Irrigate early in the morning to decrease evaporation-related water loss.
- Since certain herbicide treatments may harm seeds and seedlings, fall-seeded cool-season grasses should not receive any herbicides (including “weed and feed” products) until they have been mowed at least three times.
- When spraying pesticides to eradicate weeds prior to planting, take sure to check the label for any required waiting periods before sowing fresh seed.
It is crucial to keep tall fescue at the correct mowing height to let it to develop before winter and reduce weed occurrence. According to studies, a mowing height of 3.5 inches gives optimal growth conditions while avoiding disease incidence and weed invasion.
- When newly sown fescue reaches 4.5 inches in height, trim it to 3 inches.
- The frequency of mowing depends on the turf’s growth rate, which varies with temperature, fertility, and moisture levels.
- Allow clippings to decompose within the lawn, where they will release nutrients.
- This can minimize fertilizer requirements by 20-30%.
Warm-season grasses such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, and St. Augustinegrass can be overseeded in the fall in the Piedmont, but it is typically discouraged owing to the increased risk of winterkill. There is not enough time for warm-season grasses to reach maturity before the first forecast frost in the fall.
The ideal time to sow warm-season grasses in the North Carolina Piedmont is April and May. Explore More! Refer to the Carolina Lawns brochure for further information on establishing a new lawn and renovating an old one. Download the Tall Fescue Lawn Maintenance Calendar for additional tall fescue maintenance suggestions throughout the year.
The NC State Extension’s publication catalog has maintenance schedules for several varieties of grass. Visit TurfFiles for additional information on turf selection, maintenance, and pest control. Utilize Extension Search to locate material based on research from Cooperative Extension systems around the United States.
How can grass seed be accelerated?
Use the following “mist – gently water – deeply water” process: After sowing and fertilizing, the top inch of soil should be kept wet until the seeds begin to germinate (aka sprout). This entails sprinkling the area once a day, or twice if the weather is exceptionally hot, but without allowing it to become saturated.
Will my grass become denser if I allow it to go to seed?
Permitting Grass to Seed Reduces Lawn Density and Wastes Nutrients – Another reason not to let your grass to go to seed is that it may actually thin out rather than thicken. Although this may sound complicated, allow me to clarify. Most lawn grasses, such as Kentucky Bluegrass and Bermudagrass, develop and spread by rhizomes and stoles, which are specialized roots and stems.
This trait is what allows your grass to self-repair after harm and fill up barren places. The vast majority of grasses grow far more rapidly using this strategy than by spreading from seed. Once a grass plant reaches a certain height and begins to produce seeds, the majority of its energy is transferred from roots and spreading to seed production.
In other words, seed production is more vital to the plant than the spread of rhizomes and stealths. As planting requires more and more energy, the grass plant begins to consume soil nutrients at an accelerated rate. The more nutrients you take from the soil, the less healthy your grass will become, and you’ll quickly spend more on fertilizer.
